'We don't take a trip. A trip takes
us.'
John Steinbeck
I'd like to tell you about a magical journey
that became one of the most amazing adventures in my life. First because I want to
remember and preserve every single moment of it and second, because I would love to encourage someone who wants to go on an
adventure alone or to visit some distant place in the world, but for one reason
or another is scared or feels insecure to take the path of their heart and follow the dream. The world is so big and
wonderful and the ability to go around and enjoy, in my opinion is one of the
most valuable in our lives! Whether magic, whether fate, luck or something else - I will leave it to you
to decide... I'll just tell you
the story on behalf of a traveler unbiased and without
expectations for a trip to India.
Miracles started happening at the airport
in Istanbul, where I had to catch a plane to Delhi. As I stood at the gate, expecting to be called for boarding anytime
now, I felt thirsty. Unfortunately I had no change or
small money to get a drink from
the vending machines at the gate and decided that I wam not that thirsty anyway and can wait to
board the plane. There weren’t event 5minutes, while I was reading my book, a man stood in front of me and handed me a bottle of water from the machine. I had not even talked to him, I
didn’t give
any sign that I am thirsty and
wanted water, I had not even gone to the vending machine,so for me it was a mystery how that man decided
to give me the bottle of water. At first I was very
surprised and event declined as I
was uncomfortable, but the man insisted that I take the water, and he showed me that he has one for himself
and he took this one for me so I agreed was in amazement.
I got on the plane before take off flight attendants went
through all but treat candy, accidentally or not passed me, and my mind went
how I ate exactly candy, of course again shame could not claim them and quickly
accepted the idea that I would get away with sweet treats. On the way back,
however stewardess, carrying a bowl of candy stumbled in front of me and
spilled all over men..Veche seriously thought that you have to be careful with
your thoughts because it already even coincidence was too strange ... When I got on the plane, the
flight attendants were giving our candy to the passengers and accidently or
not, she missed me.
And so my journey to
India began ..
When I arrived in
Delhi had immediately headed to Check-in where I had to catch a flight to
Patna, where a group of Bulgarians was waiting for me to travel to the ashram
together where we would spend the next few days.
Check-in started and I
was informed that the flight was overbooked and I cannot get on a plane. I
couldn’t comprehend how I can pay for my ticket more than a month ago and two
hours before the flight they didn’t let me board without any prior warning, not
even an apology. It turned out that it was a common practice, so I had to stay
and spend the night in Delhi. Since it was difficult for me to accept the
situation, I stood around the guy at the check-in, who was not responsible for
my situation anyway but I was complaining and asking him questions, trying to
show how desperate I didn’t want to stay in Delhi as then I had to travel alone
to Rikhiya because of course the group would couldn’t wait until the next day.
He suggested that I can go to sleep at his sister, who lived near the airport.
To be totally sure that I will board the plane tomorrow I persuaded him to get
me a Border pass on his own responsibility, and explicitly noted that this is
not by the rules, but he made a compromise. I sat waiting for his shift to end
so he can take me to his sister, but at this time obviously there was a lot of
people in the same situation as me, and they were even angrier so the company
decided to arrange for us a hotel near the airport in which we can sleep ..
Since I did not exchange any money because of the reform, which started shortly
before my arrival in India this was the perfect option for me. Though I wanted to
go to the ashram as soon as possible and generally I didn’t want to stay in
Delhi, I decided that it would be part of the adventure and in any case should
not spoil the mood from day one! Once I rested at the hotel and walked in the
vicinity of the hotel, I went to dinner, where among all the Indians, I was the
only one who ate with hands, which slightly surprised me, but this is Delhi,
and perhaps the majority of people had adopted some European habits. But I couldn’t
wait to set foot on Indian soil and begin to eat with my fingers because that
food is more than delicious and its's part of the charm of the Indian culture!
While I was eating happily, a couple sat next to me – an Indian man and a woman
who was resembling a European, she certainly was not Indian. However, the man
was very well dressed in a suit in a European style, and her attire was Indian.
There was something about them except that they were extremely polite and from miles
you can see that their eyes sparkled with love and warmth... We started
speaking and from word to word it proved that these are the infamous
Mahanandiya SC and Charlotte, whose story inspired many people to write about
them, also their history will be held forever in a book, which is now a
bestseller translated into 13 languages, it is expecting its translation in
Bulgarian also.. :) a story about true love that knows no boundaries and
barriers. For the love that flares up in 1975, when they see each other for the
first time in India. He is a poor Indian from the lowest caste, drawing
pictures on the streets of Delhi, and she is a girl from Sweden who came to
travel around India as she was interested in its exotic culture.
The Indians have
several libraries, which house the akashevian stocks, written in Sanskrit of
all people living on earth, these records are of palm leaves, which contain
information about past, future incarnations, as well as guidelines and
important events of this life. In a similar place, the young PK understood,
that he was the only one in the family whose marriage will not be settled by
his relatives and he will marry a white woman who was born in May. Naturally
the first thing that PK asked Charlotte was her date of birth, and it turns out
that she was born in May, confirming that this is indeed his future wife. After
a month she had to return to Sweden, but he couldn’t stop thinking about her. He
saved enough money to buy a bicycle, and decided to follow his heart and head
on an extraordinary journey to love. It took him about five months to cross all
countries from India to Sweden, on his way he was making paintings, so he managed
to survive during these months of his journey. He arrived in Sweden with $800,
amount of a great value for that time… They are now married with two children,
living in Sweden, where PK is an art teacher and in 2005 he was nominated for
the Nobel prize. Truly inspiring story, but more important for me was the
sensation and energy that these people radiated – I could not believe this
incredible meeting and felt really happy that I missed my plane the day before!
The next day we went to the airport together, they went home to Sweden and I
had to continue on my way to Patna. We said goodbye – I will cherish this
memory in my heart for a long time!
Here you can learn a
bit more about their amazing story:
Unfortunately I could
not exchange money again as the change bureaus at the airport again were
closed, I did not realize what was happening and I was sincerely hoping that at
the airport in Patna I will have the opportunity to get some Indian rupees
because otherwise, frankly I didn’t even want to think about it.. this is
India, and especially in smaller and poorer areas where I would spend most of my
time, I would hardly find someone to exchange my money or find a bank, so 50
euro bills would be insignificant pieces of paper and I will at least have to
buy a train ticket! When I went to the Check-in I realized that my flight will
be delayed again and is not very clear when it will arrive. Again by another miracle,
I met Fezi, who yesterday was also unable to catch the plane, but he went to
sleep at his sister and today he was back at the airport hoping to catch a
plane and go home. Fezi was about 50 years old, Indian Muslim who had lived for
20 years in Saudi Arabia, but every year her is coming back to see his family,
which lived in Patna. His wife and one of his children were already in Patna, as
they have left a few days earlier, but due to his business affairs, he had to
stay a little longer and was traveling alone. So I asked him whether in Patna I
will find where to exchange my money, since I have not succeeded here and he
decided that he will help me at all costs. Because at the airport in Patna it
would be very difficult to do that and with no Indian rupees is not a good idea
to travel alone and especially when I needed to move quickly. So as a local,
just in about 30 minutes he managed to arrange for me to change some money from
a desk that was supposed to be closed. He asked and explained my situation and
was able to convince the man that stood behind the cash register, and I had
2000 rupees for which I was extremely grateful for the help, gesture, kindness
and again the luck I had!
So we got on the
plane and Fezi promised he would help me catch a train to the nearest station
to the ashram where I was going and that he will show me where the station in
Patna. When we arrived he made several phone calls and the husband of his
sister came to meet us with another boy who had to drive me to the station.
However, it turned out that the train, I had to catch is slow and usually
because the trains are late, it will arrive later on station and then to catch
a rickshaw to the ashram would be a challenge. I might have had to sleep out
there alone and this sounded worrying to him. So he proposed to stay in his
house in the evening and wait for the next day to catch a train at 5am, which was
a fast train and I should arrive before noon. At first I must admit I was
refusing, because how can I go with a complete stranger, all alone? But he was
very insistent and said he really would not bother me and it's not a good idea
to stay alone and I figured that the risk is 50/50: go into a strangers’ house
to sleep or sleep alone in the night at the station I thought perhaps the
danger would be the same and actually whatever is written, that will happen...
so I got in his car. Traveling to Fezi’s home, he and the husband of his sister
began to speak in Hindi and I again got slightly worried and started getting
thoughts like, why am I so naive and how did I agree to this proposal but then
I decided that it will not give in to fear and will keep thinking positively. I
had the blessing of my Master in Bulgaria and somehow knew that everything
would be fine! We arrived at Fezi’s home where his brother lived with his wife
and other family members. Since he only comes once a year after an hour more of
his relatives started coming who wanted to see him so I found myself in the
middle of a wonderful family gathering. All were very polite and nice to me and
I felt like the most special guest! They gave me a separate room where I can
rest and meanwhile he bought me a train ticket, for which he didn’t want any of
my money, despite of my insistence. Fezi thought that with this financial
reform in the midst of which I arrived, it would be very difficult for me to
exchange and withdraw money. He insisted that I will need them more and he
didn’t want to take any of my money for the ticked. It was the first time I
cried in India.. from the incredible kindness and hospitality of people who I
just met for the first time in my life! I hope that I deserve such respect and
I hope that I will have the awareness to do such good to other people! My
evening was spent playing with the children of the family (they had a game
called Crazy, which resembled our "Ne se sardi choveche") learning
Hindi words and teaching them some Bulgarian and playing the keyboard. You know
that kids love asking many questions and one of the kinds told me that his
favorite name is Elsa, this took me back many years ago when I read a story
about "The Smart Elsa" and in fact I was the same age when I got
inspired by this tale so my favorite name was also Elsa, what a coincidence,
right? The children were wonderful, showed me that the family is living in a
good atmosphere and is bred in love.
Fezi’s family was
relatively wealthy by the standards of India, they had TV, a big house and even
people who were helping them with the household chores.
There was a woman who
was helping in the kitchen, not from the family, although all acted with such
respect toward her that at the beginning I did not realize it was a woman who
takes care of the home. She prepared for us delicious things to eat, and then
after she left, the wife of Fezi went into the kitchen and cooked wonderful
things for me that were exactly to my taste. From my previous stay in India, my
memories of the food were not so good, but what they have prepared for me seemed
adapted to the fact that I am a foreigner and was extremely delicious! We sat
down to eat, and for me there were very different things from what they had for
dinner, because they were having vegetarian dishes and they were very spicy. It
was a great gesture on their behalf, wonderful hosts, I was feeling extreme
gratefulness and a bit of discomfort by kindness of these people and their
attention to me! The evening passed in stories about Bulgaria, India, religions
and so many other topics. They were all very intelligent and open, and the
talks with them were delightful.
Fezi and his family.
Without wanting to
bore people with talks about religion, but Fezi was an outstanding example for
me. Faith is a good thing, religion also, it teaches us wonderful things. It
helps to develop virtues and understand the real value. This is how a Muslim
takes care of a Christian with a lot of warmth, love and understanding. Every
religion teaches us - to be good to all, without dividing into ours and yours.
Not to kill, but to create and donate, not to think that we are something more
than the others, but to see how everything connects. This is what religion
teaches us, love and faith in God.
Because the most
powerful and true religion, Dalai Lama says is that of Love. Because idea is
not to be divided but to be whole and aware of our connection! Being a good
person does not mean to be fixed and to divide people but to be ready to help
any creature in need, to show compassion and not to hurt anyone, to accept the
gift of love!
The meeting with Fezi
this guy with a huge heart and his family was a unique experience from which I
learned a lot and I cannot describe my gratitude to him and my luck that I did
not leave for the ashram that day!
The next day at 5 am I
was off and said goodbye to the wonderful family! The boy who helped at Fezi`s
house took me to the train station and waited with me until the train arrived,
the he showed me my place and just before the train departed, he left.
Everything seemed so
calm and quiet that I even fell asleep. After a little more than an hour I woke
up and could not believe my eyes .. in a place for 6 people, there were 13 and
4 children. The train was bursting at its seams. All the pictures we've seen on
the internet of Indian trains – exactly the same! The doors are not closing,
people jump in the traffic, hands, feet sticking out of the windows which are
barred. One of my bags was under the seat, but there were so many people there
that I could not squeeze my hand to get it out! Children were crying, being
crushed by people is something difficult to recreate in words, because surpasses
everything the mind can imagine... I was the only white person there and you
can imagine how all eyes were on me, some looked at me with astonishment, with curiosity,
some scary looks at me with suspicion, it was interesting seeing the different
emotions that I create in people.. After about 30 minutes in which I tried to
squeeze my hand between my legs so I can open my bag to get some sandwiches
that Fezi had given me, I finally found a way! I gave them to the crying
children, it turned out that they liked them, one even sat on my lap and fell
asleep. I have tried previously on several occasions to put this kid on my
knees to avoid it being crushed and to safe his feet, but it was crying more
and more in my every attempt to touch it. I cannot explain in words the feeling
I experienced! It was one of the most powerful experiences for me, the child
was sleeping on me after it ate and suddenly as if all the energy around me has
changed. People now looked at me differently, there was warmth and affection in
their eyes. They started asking me where I am from, where I'm going, how long
will I stay and again I became a special guest and everyone around me was extremely
kind and helpful. When it was time to get off people moved and gave me way and
one boy who said he will get off on my station helped me get my backpack, which
was quite far away. He shouted in Hindi to one man who took it off and handed
it to another, so a circuit came to me. Then the same guy asked me if I wanted
him to help me catch a rickshaw and helped me deal with the transport, which
was even cheaper than the amount he had told me in advance to prepare. As
prices for foreigners and locals are very different, I got the local charge,
thanks to this good boy! So I was already traveling to the ashram and I could
not even believe that very soon I will be there!
The first ashram, I
visited and where I waited for the group of Bulgarians was Rikhiya in the state
of Bihar, one of the poorest areas in India where the tradition of Satyananda
Yoga takes care of all Okolie, helping people not only giving them food and essentials
but also teaching them the craft and cultivation of different crops so that
they can take care of themselves alone.
According Satyananda
Saraswati charity is linked not only with the act of giving something to
someone, but to give something that changes his thoughts and his life. Because
if you give a beggar money, he would spend them all for one night but the next
day would he would be in the same place and giving him money is absolutely
meaningless. Charity is to plant the seeds of change for the good in man
himself, give him or create new opportunities in the long run that will improve
his quality of life.
The tradition is also
to care for the children in the area, by creating a school where children not
only study and acquire knowledge, they try to develop their creativity with
many hours of dancing, music and other arts. In India many people, especially
from the lowest caste are unable to attend schools, but Satyananda has taken
care of this need. Remarkable place, remarkable ideas and remarkable people! I will not talk about
my experience at the ashram, I would only say that if person wants to touch the
essence of yoga, from my modest experience, this is the place where you can get
a lot of knowledge to sort and rethink your practices! Extremely valuable place
was also the another ashram I visited connected to the tradition in Munger,
Bihar School of Yoga.
Here the sansangs with
Swami Nirandzhanan were amazing and I feel fortunate that I was able to be close
to a person line him, who exudes such energy and light scattering it everywhere
around him.
I've decided to not talk about yoga here as many
of you may have no interest in yoga, so I will not dwell on the life at the
ashram. I will only say that it was a really quiet place where one can learn a
lot about ourselves, the world and everyone else. So I spent time in Seva,
Kirtan, lectures and made many new acquaintances, and we were also preparing
for the upcoming holidays!
For the first time I
will not spent Christmas with my family and so far away.. without a phone,
without internet, without any connection and communication outside the ashram.
It was a great challenge for me and I will not hide that when I heard my mother
after a few days it was a very emotional moment and I could not hold back my
tears.
The ashram had a
wonderful Christmas celebration with amusements and gifts for all and although
I was away from my family, there was a lot of people who I can also call
family. I participated in all the choirs, which wafted Christmas mood and to
hear "Silent night, holy night" in Chinese, Hindi, Bulgarian, German,
Italian and English was something magical that showed the true connection and
unity regardless of language nationality and the place where we were born, we
were all just one J
Because we did not
have electricity, the telephones were banned (And nowhere to charge), the hot
water was scarcity as part of the experience, these things have helped us test
ourselves and learn a lot about the really important things in life.
After nearly three
weeks it was time to leave the ashram and as I was about to start my trip to
Gaya and Varanasi, I decided it was better to again find a way to exchange some
money because I did not have reservations anywhere I was not sure what might
happen along the way, so it was a good idea to have a bit more Indian money in
me. A woman from the ashram helped me exchange a little bit of money, but it
would be better to go to the ATM in Munger as it was my only option anyway. Due
to the financial reform, at ATMs there were very long lines and everyone had
the right to withdraw once, 2,000 rupees, which amounted to € 30. Due to the
severe situation the cash of the ATMs was always running out money and the ATMs
were empty.
Going in and out
from the ashram is under strict control and we couldn’t go out freely and when
everyone decided. We had to write an application, wait for a day to be
approved, then we were issues a Gate Pass with which the person at the door
opens the entrance. On the pass is written the reason to exit, time of
departure and time of return. In the ashram there is a man who comes twice a
week and takes orders if someone needs to buy something, of course the request
has to be approved again. He was also a Travel agent, who helps if someone is
going to travel and needs tickets. I have asked to go out to withdraw money as
I will travel alone from the ashram. They let me go out with a boy who also was
needed to withdraw money. There was no way to let me go alone, because they
have taken responsibility for me and had to make sure I am well (they did not
know how I came alone all the way to the ashram;)) However, I decided to comply
and the next day I met Henry, the guy who had to come with me. It turned out
that he does not want to withdraw money, he needed internet and since we did
not find a place with Internet we only went to the ATM and then back home to
the ashram. It is important to follow the rules there – we couldn’t break the
rules as we promised to get back together. I felt very uncomfortable that he
came with me, without the really needing an ATM and his wasted his time. We
were talking and it turned out that he will also travel to Gaia, just that day
before me. Again it proved that nothing happens by accident. There are over 300
people in the ashram at that time and I had found the one who will travel to
the same place, so the situation was not at all meaningless. We agreed the
hotel we will go to and meet there, so again I will not be alone.
I left the ashram with
very warm feelings and a lot of new friends and headed to the train station at
5 am. While waiting for the gate to be opened, I suddenly saw Swami
Nirandjanand walking their dogs. I greeted him with deep respect and I knew that
after this, the luck will be on my side!
The decision to go to
Bodh Gaya was very spontaneous. When I was in Rikhiya, I spoke to a Bulgarian
woman who told me she was in this town and was so delighted so I felt the need
to go there and do anything possible even for the 2-3 days I had left. It was
not impossible as it was on my way to Varanasi, where I also decided to spend a
few days on the way to Delhi, where I'd catch a plane back to Bulgaria. So just
would not stop the train there and look wonderful town. So without much
thought, Bodh Gaya was in my so called plan.
At the station in
Munger I asked about 5-6 people if I'm at the right platform and whether here
comes the train to Bodh Gaya. This is India and we can never be too sure, so each
question is really necessary. The train arrived on the adjacent platform, they
said something on the radio station, but only in Hindi and suddenly two men
came to me and told me that it was my train and I need to hurry, because the
platform has changed at the last minute! At first I was a bit confused and
unsure whether to believe them, but then I fled at the last moment and still
managed to catch the train - so good that I asked people and half the station
knew where I was going :D !
I laid down on my bed, as this time it was a sleeping cabin and I was able to relax so much that I even fell asleep. When I woke up I spoke to the guy in the next bed, who was a computer engineer and traveled for work. I asked the boy if there is a chance to give me some internet on my phone, and he was very kind and had an internet widget that can be connected to the phone for free internet connection. I received a message from Henry that he has settled in Gaya, which was next to Bodh Gaya as the hotel which we decided to go to was in refurbishment and in Bodh Gaya all the hotels were very expensive because at the time there was some Buddhist event. I asked which hotel, but apparently he had no connection at this point and I did not get an answer. After an hour I was in Bodh Gaya, I had no idea where to sleep and if I will find a place that would not be very expensive. The man who took me with a rickshaw from the station told me that the Dalai Lama will come today in the city and will have initiations and lectures. An event that is extremely important for all Buddhists and happens every four years. I could not believe, because it already exceeded my luck .. In fact the event was starting a week later, when I'd already'm in Varanasi, but today was the day that the holy man arrives. When we approach the city there were barriers for the event and was not allowed to pass with rickshaws or other vehicles so I had to walk, which for me was a good option because walking I will be able to see the city and find a place where to stay. I saw some monks and we started talking, we talked about the event that lies ahead and proved that this town where Buddha received enlightenment and where is the cave in which he meditated for six years became a center of Buddhism, where Buddhists from around the world gather every four years. We walked about twenty minutes, the backpack on my back already weighing quite a lot, but I had not yet found a place to stay. Suddenly we reached a place where a lot of people had gathered and Dalai Lama was coming shortly. There was something like a medical center, where I asked if I can leave my luggage and without even thinking I threw it behind a desk and went into the crowd to meet the cleric. After about 15 minutes, the girls from the place I left my luggage came and told me that they need to change points and there will be no one to look after my luggage. However, I decided I prefer to stay and even if someone steals my clothes it wouldn’t be as important as the opportunity to see the Dalai Lama even for five minutes.
As I waited with the
crowd, I spoke with a man standing next to me named Bino. From word to word, he
realized that I had no place to stay and probably will not stay in Bodh Gaya,
because I know that most hotels are full and the prices are quite high. He
spoke on the phone and after he hung up, he told me an acquaintance of his has
a hotel nearby and with a very good price / actually it was 3 times, less than
the cheapest places in this moment / Without even thinking I agree. So after we
met the Dalai Lama and went back to his chambers, I got on Bino’s motorbike and
we went to this place. It turned out its really close, the warm water was still
a mirage, but I had an internet and very nice hosts who constantly bought me tea
and were very responsive and caring. Even thought I had taken the room of one
of the owners and during my stay he slept in the corridor ... The next day Bino
wanted to show me the city and some of the numerous temples, so we were going
around all day with his bike and enjoying the sights in the city.
Picture with Bino.
There was no way to
imagine it more beautifully. Extremely good person with a big heart.
Remarkable was the
largest, main temple, where was the tree where Buddha achieved enlightenment.
After we went around, I met a monk who lived there and showed exceptional
kindness and asked me if I wanted him to show me more things and to walk with
him as he tells me about the place and the story of Buddha. I knew that Bino
was waiting for me outside, but could not miss this opportunity of a private
guide around the temple and agreed. So I learned so much about the history of
Buddha, about what people were doing in the temple, and many other things
related to Buddhism, and even though I know that I will repeat myself, it was
again great luck! In the temples people take off their shoes, because to go in
with shoes on is a sign of disrespect, so when I finished the tour and headed
towards the exit I was surprised - my shoes were stolen. :) This event didnt
manage change my mood and the pleasure received from my journey. I'm sure
someone else had a better need for them and I proceeded barefoot. I sat in a
restaurant and started eating with my hands, my feet were bare and not very
clean, not in a luxurious place I tested my life and its like I was tasting the
food in a different way! I was joking with Bino, who had shoes on his feet,
that I am now more Indian than many Indians both laughed. It was a lovely
evening. After returning to the hotel, I
enjoyed good company where I spoke with the owners and some of the guests. What
I felt was the warmth and comfort, and that my adventure was getting more and
more magic. The next day Bino’s motorbike broke and he sent his brother and his
nephew to take me with their motorbike to the cave of Buddha. High up in the
rocks and away from the city, of course it was full of tourists and many
pilgrims and yet the place was special and everyone could feel his energy.
Since I could not
continue my journey barefoot as comfortably as I felt, I had to have shoes on
the plane and on my way home, so I really had to buy shoes. In Bod Gaia were
not many shoe stores and especially for women, so I had to go around until I got
the most colorful, traditional sequin Indian shoes. I bargained a good price
and every time I looked at them I felt joy and got a really fun feeling, the
same people were probably feeling at the airport in Istanbul and Varna :D
And so it was time to
leave Bodh Gaya and start my way to Varanasi. One of the holiest cities in India,
where many people go to at the end of their life, as they truly believe that
this is a place that frees you from the cycle of life and death and that the
soul soars without being reborn again on this Earth where there is so much
suffering. From one German woman from the ashram, I knew a place where I can
stay and as I was sure that nothing is by chance I directly headed there. A man
with a rickshaw took me from the station and supposedly knew where was my
hotel, it turned out he really doesn’t know and is trying to take me to a completely
different place of course to get a good commission, and convinced me that he
will take me to nicer place downtown. However, I understood what was going on
so I decided to pay him and to simply walk alone and try to find my place.
So I found myself in Asi Ghat, which was at the end of the city and from
there the river continued to the central gates I cannot tell how long I have been
walking, but with a backpack I was really tired. So I got to a hotel that I
knew from Hannah (a girl of the ashram) that is close to the Lotus Guest house
where I wanted to stay. So from there I went behind the hotel and started
asking people, no one had heard of Lotus and so I wandered for almost an hour
without direction, in the narrow streets, hoping to find a sign so I met a boy
who asked me where I was going. Without much hope from my side, I replied
without even stopping and as I was passing him, he said that he knows where the
place is and he will help me get there! I was starting to lose faith as I was
always finding people who wanted to take me to different places. But he said he
would take me to a store whose Owner is the owner of the hotel, so once I get
to the store, I should find someone to take me to the hotel. We went to the
store, which was on the wide street Bengali Tola and the guy led me through the
crowd after 500 meters again entered the narrow streets and began to walk among
local shops, cows and everything that can fit in a meter-wide street. My bag
weighed a lot already (because of books, which were presents from the ashram and I really don't wanted to leave..) and I was very tired, the bag was getting stuck everywhere
because the streets were so tiny, like a maze without end .. I could not wait to
just dive in bed and was not even planning to go out as I thought that if I go
out again I will not be able to find the hotel on my way back. It was the first
time when perhaps I was feeling a bit down. The hotel turned out to be the cleanest
place I had seen in India. An American met me at the entrance, very nice and
polite. Luckily there was a spare room, but was reserved for two days and I had
to stay four, but they said they will assist me and find me a near by hotel
where I can stay for the remaining 2 days. The 2 days were so far away for me so
I went to my room and left my luggage. I was calm, I had a place to sleep,
fatigue disappeared suddenly and perhaps because having no window in the room
somehow affected me and I immediately went out for a walk, giving myself
another chance to love Varanasi.
I cannot explain exactly how, but I managed to go back to Bengali Tola
and from there I even found the nearest Gat, I went on it and began to walk
along the river. People were stopping me to offer me everything from boat
tours, body paint, body massages .. Varanasi and all across India you can feel
the duality. This is the most colorful country that I have visited, despite all
poverty, They are dressed in bright, happy colors that bring a playful mood and
really a delight for the eye. Strong odors, just as the experiences and impressions. The first
time I went to India I had been told: "India is a place that will not
leave you indifferent. Either you will hate it forever and will never want to
stay there, or you will love it and dream to come back, "If I have to be
honest the first time India impressed me this time India overcame it! Country
of extremes, naturally awakes the extreme in me.
While I was walking among people thought I need silence, but it is so
difficult to find one there, there is not a second where someone does not
speak, pulling or wanting something from you, but when I sat down to observe
the river, I realized that Tisha is within us. The external conditions should
not affect our inner silence. I realized that this is part of their culture and
I'm their guest, so to dive into their habits and adopt some of them was the
meaning of my journey, rather than trying to compare it to mine and come to
positive or negative conclusions. Moreover, as a guest I had to respect their
way of life and to understand that there is no right or wrong, it is the way it
is and I should not allow my mind to play tricks and take away my own silence
and the wonderful time spend in this place so incomprehensible to my culture.
And here a kite went over and I saw the happiest, barefoot and nearly
naked children who were playing with it. Their eyes were sparkled with joy and
after a moment when the kite fell and they failed to raise it back up, a
passing stranger took it and helped them to take it off again in the air and
they ran away with joyfully. The children here do not play on computers and
tablets, they play real games using creativity to invent their own toys with
the materials available: from wooden twigs and everything they can find and
using all of their imagination to transform a game in an incredibly real
adventure. This makes me think about the way " the cultural people" are
crippling the children and stop the energy, talent and development. I apologize
for the categorization because it's again maybe a result of the defective
functions of my mind, which I so diligently try to overcome. So that we accept
the differences without judging and I continue to be impressed with an open
heart and mind!
At this point a young man came up to me and started asking me questions
like where I am from, what do I do in Varanasi etc. I decided that it was again
a salesman and who wants to try to sell me some product or some service. But it
did not matter I just wanted to walk around and as I said, I will try to be
open to this different culture so I will not ask him to leave, I let him go
whenever he decided, without him affecting my inner peace. Because it is very
easy to be good to the good or when you are alone in the mountains away from
everything to feel relaxed and free, but the challenge lies in being nice,
being at peace despite everything and everyone, not just in solitude, but in the
chaos and the crowds of people who do not care about your comfort at all. So I
met with Kishan, who didn’t leave mi side for the next two hours. We went to
the Burning Gates where he circumstantially told me about the rituals and the
beliefs of Hindus associated with death and I learned so many things which in
the first moment totally confused my emotions.
The burning gates are places where dead people are burned. These are places
right by the river and having in mind the large number of Indians, the rituals
here do not stop for 24 hours, at any time there are at least 5-6 lighting
fires. At first when I went there, I did not realize that it is actually
burning people as the very energy of these places is very different from what
is felt in our culture. I even didn’t want to believe them, but later when I
was convinced that this is really happening there, it’s when my emotional
confusion came.
When someone had passed away, their loved ones were dressing him in his
nicest clothes, putting his treasured ornaments and jewelry and were wrapping
him in an orange cloak and flowers. Six or more men were carrying the corpse in
something like a bamboo ladder and were passing through the city, singing
cheerfully a mantra that sounded like a solemn march until they reached the
Gang. In fact, Varanasi is a place where many people go at the end of their
life. People choose to visit it to have the option to end their existence right
there, it’s not coincidental that it’s one of the holiest cities in India,
where the energy of the river is so special that it can free from the cycles of
life and death or the rebirth that follows. Indians perceive the end of the
life on Earth in this place as a new beginning, which takes the soul to the
upper astral worlds. So their rituals are connected with this release of the
soul from the earthly suffering and torment.
The relatives of the deceased, if they are men they shave the hair and
beard, women cut their nails and marked by mourning they should not be married for
a year and come to bathe in the river every morning.
There are a few exceptions where the bodies are not burnt at the shore.
For example, if the deceased person is a pregnant woman or a child under 15
years of age. In this case it is believed that they are closer to God and do
not need be burned, but their bodies are placed directly along the river. If
the deceased had committed suicide, he has no right to be burned at the Gate
because it's disrespectful to the Divine Mother and this man does not have the
right to be released from the next incarnation, in this case, there is a
building where it is similar to our familiar cremation. There are also burned
dead people who are poisoned or bitten by a cobra as fumes could pollute the
air and poison the people around.
Initially for me it was incomprehensible that there were small children
who attending. Kishan told me that after the body was put in the place where it
will be ignited, the closest person to the deceased ignites the fire itself, in
most cases you guessed, this were the children. So all dressed in white after
circling the body five times, symbolizing the 5 elements and singing sacred
mantra, the body is ignited and it starts to burn. In the eyes of the audience,
you could rarely see sadness, they did not cry, as if consciously realizing and
accepting the reality of the loss, directing their thoughts to the beliefs of
the culture and not leaving any room for affection that brings suffering.
The smell of flesh was absorbed into me, the ash from the burning
corpses was on my clothes, however for me it was one of the most powerful
experiences on which I pondered and it changed my image of the most natural
processes in the world, life and death.
I could not understand why Kishan lost so much of his time with me, I
felt that he was not completely honest, telling me that he has a store and
today is his day off and has gone on to walk before we met and as respected
foreign guests visited his home town, he wanted to help me and let me immerse
in the local life. I told him I want to visit Sarnath, a place which is very
close to Varanasi, where Buddha has delivered his first teachings and today is
the center where Buddhists gather from around the world to experience the
feeling and tranquility that the place exudes. Kishan told me that he has a
friend with a rickshaw who can take me there and wait for me to bring me back at
good price. On my preliminary research the price was really good, and there was
nothing to think so I agreed. I felt that there was something in this guy as
insincerity, but decided not investigate and seek a calf under the ox, maybe if
he was not sincere, the reason was in myself and me not comforting him to be. Despite
that, the next day I decided to take advantage of his offer for transport to
Sarnath and to not allow any thoughts to stop me from enjoying the time spend,
no fear and expectations. We went to watch the nightly ceremonies of the river,
which are a huge tourist attraction and are held every night and then we had
dinner together, his stories were endless, and my astonishment grew more and
more.
I was glad that I met him, because only a local can truly immerse you in
the psychology and sensation of a different country and culture.
The next day I went to find Kishan, and he already was waiting for me
with tea and the man who would take me to Sarnath. So in the misty morning me
took off to the sacred place.
A unique place where you really fall in love with the tranquility and
the beautiful atmosphere. The view and one of the oldest museums in India
connected to Buddha and this place, and one of the tallest Buddha statues in
the world. We drank tea and talked with the driver all the way, even though he
hardly spoke any English somehow managed to have a wonderful time.
After the tour I returned to Varanasi and when I got to the hotel and
turned on my Internet, I received a message from Ashley, who was Israeli, and
who I had met the day before, while I was with Kishan. He attended a course on
harmonium (this is a typical Indian instrument resembling an accordion) and
besides that we were both foreigners, it proved that we have a lot in common,
including our interest in piano and traveling alone. He had visited my hometown
years ago and kept very warm memories of Bulgaria. As it was the evening of
31.12. and he said that there will be a concert in his musical school, in which
he will take part, I decided after a meal we can go there together and
celebrate in music in the New Year. After
we stayed for a while and listened to interesting improvisations and
performances we decided to go out and go to his hotel to check if there are
available rooms. The price was 3 times cheaper than where I were staying and I
was expecting that there will be no rooms in my hotel tomorrow, so it would be
good to have a backup plan. Once we got to the hotel we went to their common
room as a kitchen, where all the housemates were gathered. People from every
corner of the planet, were together celebrating New Year sitting down and
delighting their senses on table laid with delicious dishes that they had
prepared. While above us there was no roof and only stars, this place was so
warm. Wonderful people with funny stories and lots of smiles. Before we
realized it was 2:00 and because I got worried that my hotel might get locked
and I might not be able to go in, I decided to leave, although here the party
was not over. And without much thinking, I took the dark alleys alone. I got to
my hotel, I was very tired and wanted to lie down, however, it turned out that
there is a big party on the roof, and since my room was on the top floor, it
was like the party was here. So rather than sitting down in my room in a vain
attempt to ignore the loud music, I decided to get on and be part of the fun!
Dancing, glowing lanterns and a very good mood, this is how I celebrated The New
2017 with wishes for consciousness and light on the paths of all people. Even
though, all the time I was with total strangers, I felt like I was with very
good friends, and the last thing I felt was loneliness! I could not believe how
lucky I am because my entire stay was more magical than my wildest dreams and
everywhere I went I met wonderful people with good, big hearts contagions with
warmth and love.
It turned out that some of the guests are leaving the hotel sooner and
if I want I can stay until the end of my journey here. I liked Ashley`s hotel
and I liked the company there, but the idea to pack the bags and move for two
days somehow it didn’t fell right, so I decided not to complicate things and
stay in Lotus, as they also agreed to give me discount for the following
nights.
The next day I was walking around Varanasi and enjoying the city, I had
begun to really like it, despite the initial barriers that I had in my mind,
and now I was giving away smiles everywhere. I started my walk at 4:00 in the
morning because I wanted to watch the morning Puja and see how the city around
the river awakens. Then I went to morning yoga at Asi Gate. Then I just roamed
around and found a wonderful place, which is called "AUM Coffee".
Extremely delicious Ayurveda food, great desserts and a large variety of dishes
for every taste. There I met Sarah and her boyfriend, so while enjoying
chocolate desserts we discussed what has led us to India and what we have found
here.
The same way I met Anya from Australia that night, but in one
Japanese-Indian restaurant near my hotel. She was a dancer, who came for a workshop
for a month. Extremely warm and gentle person. I cannot tell you about all the
people who have crossed my way, but here the relationships are very different,
these are not people who I have been friends or acquaintance at school, no
mutual interests, these are people that we don’t have anything in common and
still the communication is extremely free. Creating experiences together without
"must" or "Because", but simply because of the feeling that
there is something more than that. So I met Sarah from the US, with whom we had
so many interesting discussions that we were both late for the meetings we had with
different friends. Wonderful new friendships with people who love to travel and
discover new horizons. Some were looking for something, others fled because of
something, and others just because they enjoyed the diversity of the world and
life. I was the third type, because I firmly believe that if you are not very
happy and you are feeling a gap, then even if you go to the end of the world
you will not feel anything different. I'm just as happy as I was before my
trip, but richer in friends, experiences and wonderful moments in a completely
different atmosphere, away from my comfort zone where there is warm water,
contact phone connection and all the things that we are so used to that we
don’t even think about them as luxury. Luxury, that at times you really is
unnecessary and superfluous. I can remember a story of the Dalai Lama, when he
visited the States and they decided to show him one of the biggest malls that
is so huge it takes a day to go around it in a golf cart. When finally the tour
was over and they asked him what he thinks expecting phenomenal praise and
astonishment, the Dalai Lama said: "I now realize without how many
unnecessary things I can live." I think it's wonderful if we understand
the true meaning of these words.
I spent another two days in touring attractions and sightseeing in
Varanasi. Kishan was helping me a lot, sometimes he came with me, sometimes he
was organizing everything or simply directing me to prices much lower than
those a foreigner can arrange alone. A day before my departure I went to the
Golden Temple in Varanasi, where the security is stricter than at the airport.
If you have a foreign passport, they ask the religion they profess and
thousands of other questions. Since this is one of the most sacred places
there, they want to be sure that nobody will harm this holy place. Access is
pretty limited, there was even a sign that men who profess Hinduism are not
allowed to enter inside. This temple is one of twelve most sacred places in
India, another one of them I visited in Dougar when I was still with Bulgarian
group on the way to Munger. When I went there were many people, but what I felt
was a sense of a dream, a very strange experience, which I don’t want to
interpret, but I associate my experience as a mix between Deja vu and sleep. I
do not know what these places hold and I probably wouldn’t understand, but
there is definitely something incomprehensible to us yet.
The last day in Varanasi, I went with Kishan to drink tea and he told me
that in fact his work is related to helping people find the Gates. Mostly
Japanese, because he spoke Japanese and to coordinate various excursions as
well as guide them if they want to buy things where to do so, and of course he
takes commissions. Certainly, he was doing very well, he really knew how to get
under peoples’ skin and for his 24 years he was a really smart guy! Initially
when he saw me he though I am a foreigner, from who, he will be able to make
money, but once he realized I was at the end of my journey and didn’t want to
buy anything or to spend very much money he was slightly disappointed. But he
liked me and decided to continue our communication because it felt right. I
appreciated this moment of sincerity and thanked him for everything he had done
for me. Because without him I wouldn’t have got a real taste of Varanasi. He
bragged about being able to get a passport, which for Indians is something
extremely difficult and accessible only to the smaller part of the population!
I had not thought about, but its logical, most people have no real home, let
alone a registered address. It turned out that besides the fact that it’s
really expensive, it also takes time in which the law enforcement officers keep
checking you for months, sending people into your home and your work to see if
everything is well and its matching the criteria. There are long questionnaires
to fill and it needs to be done in the larger cities. This is required in order
to get, as my Indian friend expressed it, "Identity", something that
most of his fellow citizens did not have. Kishan was happy that he managed to
get a passport and could now travel outside India, which is the impossible
dream for most Indians.
Just before I was about to leave for the airport, I wanted to buy tea.
However, I only had money for one package, and I really wanted to take two, so
while I was bargaining (something I've never done before, but I became very
good in it in India - they take it as a game and often when you ask for the
price of something the seller says: "The initial price is ... but you know
it's India can negotiate" and with such an option, the bargaining became
my usual :). In this moment the man who would drive me to the airport arrived
and saw that I was explaining how I have no money left just enough for the
transport to the airport. For the transport we had agreed to 500 rupees. From
the locals, I knew that the normal tariff is 350, but since I am a foreigner no
one will take me for so much, so I should bargain for least 600. On the road we
talked with the driver, it turned out that he is a very nice man and when we
got to the airport and I gave him 500 rupees he gave me back 200 with the saying
that I will need them more and as his guest from far away he wanted to do me
good. J It definitely exceeded my expectations J
I caught my plane and landed in Delhi. There, at the last moment I
decided there was no need to sleep at the airport when I can go to a hotel 2km
away and get good rest before the long flight. I had no cash because the money the
taxi driver returned, I used for transport to the hotel, but I had a credit
card with which I intended to pay. I arrived late, but let me in, very polite
and nice people. The next day it turned out that there is a problem with my
card and I cannot pay. As a joke I asked them if there is a chance to pay when
I get home in Bulgaria and if they are able to send me the details of the hotel
by email without even thinking the guy at the front desk agreed! Well, that was
a surprise, even I could not believe it! I do not know if this happens often,
but it never happened to me before, not that I've tried but again I felt that luck
was on my side. Although it could be luck, but this really exceeded all my
expectations …
So on my way back on the place, I was on 3 seats and I managed to take a
nap and didn’t feel the 9 hours and felt grateful for everything that happened
to me and now I could not wait to go back again!
What I realized was that it doesn’t matter where a person goes, if he
has an open mind, good hearth, positive attitude towards the world and people,
whether God, the Universe or someone else, but there is something that guards
and directs and the only thing left is to enjoy life, endeavors and enjoy the
wonderful interactions.
If someone wants to go to India you should know that you do not need a
lot of luggage, only love in the heart and eyes for the beautiful!
And though I shed a tear at the beginning of the journey, when they told
me I should spend the night in Delhi, now I feel only gratitude for everything
magical that happened to me. I couldn’t have imagined a better way. Shukri! J
Vege Market :) 
The Hairdressers
The waking up of the city.
Wake up, Varanasi !
Bath time J
Would you like some tea?
In the Holy city, everything is holy, even the trash bins J
The Sleeping Beauty J
To think about...
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